A Preponderance of Umbrellas: the Limits of Control in Tiananmen.
On June 4th, the 20th anniversary of the crushing of the student-led pro-democracy demonstrations in Tiananmen, we made our way through heavy security, bag searches, and questions about whether we were journalists to see the square. Around it, along each side, are arranged the headquarters of the Chinese Communist Party, the National Museum of China, the mausoleum of Mao Zedong, and the Forbidden City, on whose walls Mao’s portrait -his gaze open, vacuous- hangs between words exhorting the “people of the world,” meaning only the right sort of people, to unite.
The weather was dark, and -as happens in countries whose governments operate in secrecy and with impunity- everyone seemed sure that some conspiracy was afoot; a Marine guard at the American Embassy echoed the common belief that the government seeded clouds to control the rain. But their meteorological efforts, whatever they are, have no effect on the flowers, poisoned by pollution, which even in this epicenter of propaganda are as dead as 1989’s dissidents.
The highway in which the famous, anonymous man endeavored to appeal to the humanity of the soldiers driving their tanks over their fellow citizens was arresting to see, but most notable was the strange preponderance of umbrellas: the undercover police presence in the square was matched only by the number of uniformed officers and guards; in total, they outnumbered ordinary citizens by a wide margin. The undercover officers, tall young men barely disguising their purpose, all spoke into their umbrellas periodically and never opened them, even in the short shower: whether they were batons or radios or both is hard to say.
The atmosphere was incredible: tense, expectant, electric, paranoid. It was also sad. Many in the West believe that democracy is a meaningless abstraction, that freedoms of association and the press are made irrelevant by market forces, that our values are sham narratives which serve to support insidious forms of class power. Such absurdities seem worse than silly when in a place where so many died hoping for the rights we mock as inconsequential.
The students were not dissimilar from those of the White Rose, although they were probably more surprised by their own martyrdom since many in the Party supported them. Officially, China maintains that few were killed and that the demonstrations had to be quashed to maintain civil order; that crushing demonstrations is a violation of civil order does not occur to them. The presence of all those armed and disguised enforcers of state policy in that peaceful square show how little they still understand, despite their opening, about what real civil order is.
I have no doubt that time will teach them, and when it does the students of Tiananmen will be celebrated as “People’s Heroes” like those in the official monuments now wreathed in Party red. That is how time works, in China as elsewhere.
(Update: thanks to Sazerac for the link explaining the umbrellas).